CHAP. 1. (1.)—EPIRUS.
The third great Gulf of Europe begins at the mountains
of Acroceraunia[1], and ends at the Hellespont, embracing an
extent of 2500 miles, exclusive of the sea-line of nineteen
smaller gulfs. Upon it are Epirus, Acarnania, Ætolia, Phocis,
Locris, Achaia, Messenia, Laconia, Argolis, Megaris, Attica,
Bœotia; and again, upon the other sea[2], the same Phocis
and Locris, Doris, Phthiotis, Thessalia, Magnesia, Macedonia
and Thracia. All the fabulous lore of Greece, as well as the
effulgence of her literature, first shone forth upon the banks
of this Gulf. We shall therefore dwell a little the longer
upon it.
Epirus[3], generally so called, begins at the mountains of
Acroceraunia. The first people that we meet are the Chaones,
from whom Chaonia[4] receives its name, then the Thesproti[5],
and then the Antigonenses[6]. We then come to the place
where Aornos[7] stood, with its exhalations so deadly to the
feathered race, the Cestrinis[8], the Perrhæbi[9], in whose coun-
try Mount Pindus is situate, the Cassiopæi[10], the Dryopes[11],
the Sellæ[12], the Hellopes[13], the Molossi, in whose territory is
the temple of the Dodonæan Jupiter, so famous for its oracle;
and Mount Tomarus[14], so highly praised by Theopompus,
with its hundred springs gushing from its foot.
(2.) Epirus, properly so called, advances towards Magnesia and
Macedonia, having at its back the Dassaretæ,
previously[15] mentioned, a free nation, and after them the
Dardani, a savage race. On the left hand, before the Dardani
are extended the Triballi and the nations of Mœsia, while in
front of them the Medi and the Denselatæ join, and next to
them the Thracians, who stretch away as far as the Euxine:
in such a manner is a rampart raised around the lofty heights
of Rhodope, and then of Hæmus.
On the coast of Epirus is the fortress of Chimær[16],
situate upon the Acroceraunian range, and below it the
spring known as the Royal Waters[17]; then the towns of
Mæandria, and Cestria[18], the Thyamis[19], a river of Thesprotia,
the colony of Buthrotum[20], and the Ambracian Gulf[21], so
famed in history; which, with an inlet only half a mile in
width, receives a vast body of water from the sea, being
thirty-seven miles in length, and fifteen in width. The river
Acheron, which runs through Acherusia, a lake of Thesprotia, flows
into it[22] after a course of thirty-six miles; it is considered
wonderful for its bridge, 1000 feet in length, by a
people who look upon everything as wonderful that belongs
to themselves. Upon this Gulf is also situate the town of
Ambracia. There are also the Aphas and the Arachthus[23],
rivers of the Molossi; the city of Anactoria[24], and the place
where Pandosia[25] stood.
1. Now called Monti della Chimera, or Mountains of Khimara. See
p. 262.
2. The Ægean Sea, the present Archipelago.
3. This country contained, according to Pouqueville, the present
Sangiacs of Janina, Delvino, and Chamouri, with the Vavodilika or
Principality of Arta. This name was originally given to the whole of
the west of
Greece, from the Promontory of Acroceraunia to the entrance of the
Corinthian Gulf, in contradistinction to Corcyra and the island of
Cephallenia.
4. This district, according to Pouqueville, occupied the present Cantons
of Chimera, Iapouria, Arboria, Paracaloma, and Philates.
5. They occupied the site of the present Paramythia, according to
Pouqueville.
6. Antigonia was about a mile distant, Pouqueville says, from the
modern town of Tebelen.
7. From 'A "not," and o)/rnis "a bird." Its site is now
unknown. There were many places of this name. Avernus or Aornos in
Campania has been previously mentioned.
8. The remains of Cestria are still to be seen at Palea Vnetia, near
the town of Filiates. Pouqueville calls the place Chamouri.
9. According to Pouqueville, the modern Zagori stands on the site of
Perrhæbia. Pindus is sometimes called Grammos, but is still known by
its ancient name.
10. Cassiope or Cassope stood near the sea, and near the present village
of Kamarina. Its extensive ruins are still to be seen.
11. Their district, according to Pouqueville, was in the present Canton
of Drynopolis.
12. The Selli or Sellæ lived in the vicinity of the temple of Jupiter at
Dodona, in the modern canton of Souli, according to Pouqueville.
13. The country about Dodona is called Hellopia by Hesiod. By some
the Helli or Hellopes are considered the same as the Selli. Pouqueville
thinks that the Hellopes dwelt in the modern cantons of Janina, Pogoniani, Sarachovitzas, and Courendas, and that the temple of Jupiter stood
at the spot now called Proskynisis, near Gardiki, the town of Dodona
being near Castritza. Leake is of the same opinion as to the site of the
town; but, as has been a subject of remark, it is the only place of celebrity
in Greece of which the situation is not exactly known. Leake however
thinks that the temple stood on the peninsula now occupied by the
citadel of Joanina.
14. Pouqueville thinks that this is the hill to be seen at the modern village of Gardiki. He is also of opinion that the springs here mentioned
are those at the modern village of Besdounopoulo. His opinions however
on these points have not been implicitly received.
15. B. iii. c. 26. The Dardani, Triballi, and Mœsi are mentioned in
c. 29. The localities of the other tribes here mentioned are not known
with any exactness.
16. It retains the same name or that of Khimara, and gives its name to
the Acroceraunian range. It was situate at the foot of the chain, which
begins at this spot.
17. "Aquæ regiæ." Pouqueville suggests, without good reason, as Ansart thinks, that this spring was situate near the modern Drimodez or
Dermadez.
18. The place called Palæo-Kistes now stands on its site, and some
remains of antiquity are to be seen.
19. Now the Calama.
20. Its ruins are to be seen near the modern Butrinto. It was said to
have been founded by Helenus, the son of Priam. Pamponius Atticus
had an estate here.
21. This corresponds to the present Gulf of Arta, and was especially famous
for being the scene of the battle of Actium. The city of Ambracia lay to
the north of it. The present Arta is generally believed to occupy its site.
22. Pouqueville has shown that Pliny is in error here, and he says that
the Acheron is the modern Mavro Potamos; but according to Leake,
the name of it is Gurla, or the river of Suli. It flows into the Port Fanari, formerly called Glykys Limen, or Sweet Harbour, from the freshness of the water there. The Acherusian Lake is probably the great
marsh that lies below Kastri.
23. It is now called the Arta, and gives name to the Gulf.
24. The site of Anactoria or Anactorium, like that of its neighbour Actium, has been a subject of much dispute; but it is now pretty generally
agreed that the former stood on the modern Cape Madonna, and Actium
on the headland of La Punta.
25. Pouqueville takes the ruins in the vicinity of Turco Palaka, eight
miles from Margariti, to be those of Pandosia.